7 Hair Straightening Methods and How They Work

Publish date: 2024-05-18

A quick science lesson: Your hair is made up of disulfide bonds — and these bonds are what keep the hair in its natural state. When you straighten hair, you're breaking those bonds, allowing the hair to take on a new, sleek shape. "Straightening your hair can be a very fun way to dramatically change one’s look day to day," says Raphael Roque, senior stylist at Rob Peetoom Williamsburg.

There are a few different ways to straighten your hair, and they fall into two main categories: temporary and permanent. With temporary straightening methods, as long as no major heat damage occurs, the bonds will go back to normal when wet, allowing you to go back to your natural look. With permanent methods, the hair will hold its new shape until you cut it off. (There's also a permanent method, a keratin treatment, that lies somewhere in the middle — but more on that later)

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To weigh your hair-straightening options, read our break-down of each type below.

Temporary Straightening Methods

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Pros: You get a temporary sleek style and you may find your hair easier to manage.

Cons: Maintaining the style can lead to heat damage and your hair can easily revert when exposed to moisture or humidity.

Blowout

"A blowout involves using a blowdryer and typically a round brush," says Roque. The brush adds tension to the hair, holding it taut as the blow dryer dries the hair, resulting in a smooth finish. And because it's round, it creates a big, bouncy curl. "Blowouts take anywhere from 30 min to an hour, depending on the hair length and density," says Ramos. The results usually last one to two days.

Flat Ironing

This is a form of straightening that usually happens on dry hair. Once hair is rough-dried with a blow dryer and a brush, Roque explains that you section the hair into small sections and go over them with a flat iron/straightener. "The look lasts as long as the hair can last before looking visibly dirty or until the next wash," says Ramos.

Silk Press

A silk press is similar to flat ironing, except the prep is more intense. "A silk press involves deep washes and cleanses to the scalp and hair followed by a blow-dry and straightening the hair," says Roque. It can take 30 minutes to a few hours, depending on the density and length of your hair. The results will last about a week or until your next wash.

Roller Set

A roller set is an old-school method of straightening that involves less direct heat than the above options. First, the hair is rolled tautly into rollers, and then you sit under a hooded dryer until the hair is fully dry, which can take around 90. minutes. "They can help achieve volume and straightening," says Roque. The results last one to three days.

Semi-Permanent

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Pros: Hair is smoother and will retain straight styling better.

Cons: Strong chemicals and high heat are needed to perform, which can lead to damage over time.

Keratin Treatment

"A keratin treatment is a chemical treatment that uses safe amounts of formaldehyde to help smooth the hair follicle," says Roque. You'll still need to apply the above methods to get your hair straight, and it will revert to only a smoother version of your natural texture when wet, but the treatment helps your hair retain straight styles as it will be more resistant to humidity. Gradually, the results will wear off after four to six months.

Permanent Straightening Methods

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Pros: All texture and volume is removed. Hair is pin straight and will not revert when exposed to moisture or humidity.

Cons: If you decide you don't want it any more, you have to cut off the treated hair. The chemical application can lead to damage over time.

Relaxer

"A relaxer is a permanent hair straightening method to remove all curl/wave from the hair," says Ramos. It uses chemicals, like sodium hydroxide, to permanently break those disulfide bonds in the hair and keep it straight. The solution is applied to dry hair, processed, and then washed with a neutralizing shampoo to lock the straightness in place.

As new hair grows in, you'll need to head to the salon for a root touch-up. It's important to stay on top of your touch-ups as the line of demarcation between new growth and relaxed hair is fragile (especially for coily hair), so breakage is possible. The only way to get rid of relaxed hair and wear your natural texture is to chop off the relaxed part.

Japanese Thermal Straightening

Also known as permanent re-bonding and thermal reconditioning, Japanese thermal straightening is similar to a relaxer; it breaks down and reshapes the bonds in hair to permanently remove curl and frizz. For this process, chemicals like ammonium thioglycolate are applied to wet hair. The solution sits and is then rinsed out. Your hair will be blow-dried and meticulously straightened before a neutralizing solution is applied. Then, that gets rinsed out, and the hair is blown-out again.

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